// author archive


mary has written 18 posts for Two on Four Wheels

The Sword in the Stone

Bathing: mud and sun stylie The 12th of January marks our 18th month away. It started early, our neighbour the cockrel started his cock-a-do-dul-do kareoke at around 3.30, as his had done every ‘morning’ since we arrived in the relaxed beach town on Mui Ne. The sun has had his hat on too since we [...]

Bia Hoi

Two of your finest ice cold Vietnamese Bia Hoi’s please Squire, I’ll take one glass half full and one half empty thanks. The latter, brewed with outrageously dangerous driving, distilled with hoteliers who have an apparent loathing for all tourists and kegged with the ‘liberation’ of our cash, is a hard one to swallow. Being [...]

Old Speckled Hen and Remembrance

Brown paper bag please. That’s what I needed as we rode perilously into the night. My throat tightened, my loud raspy breathing echoed in my ears, fear soaked my t-shirt and salted my fleece. So this is Panic when it greets me. Hello old friend, long time no see. Anyone who has ever heard the [...]

Electric blankets, cold tablets and truck loads of Monks

Let’s start with the Tibetan monks shall we? There we were, up in the Grasslands, or should I say Snowlands, between Gansu and Sichuan provinces soaking up the vast landscapes, warmth of the afternoon sunshine and getting our first whiff of Tibetan life when we were overtaken by a procession of perhaps 15 cars filled [...]

3274 kms Later….

It’s sunday morning, I’ve made us breakfast in bed and the smell of coffee fills our compact room in Lanzhou. Sounds from the alley come in through the window, I’ve heard drums and cymbals this morning and I imagined a huge dragon dancing to the rhythms, sellers shout their wares with sunday lethargy and try [...]

House Warming Invitation

So here we all are, the Khorog ten. From left Tobias, Marianne, Ramon, Patrick, Victor, Moniek, Me, Hanne (aka Honkanen) Pete and Arian. Photograph: Arian Van Helden I am procrastination incarnate. So much to write but where to start… I think to myself, I know, I’ll just organise the desk in our hostel room here [...]

Four on Eight Wheels becomes Six on Twelve!!

So two continued to be four as we crossed over another border into Uzbekistan. Stopping at a hospital for lunch (as you do) within an hour of being in the country we found the Uzbeks to be a very friendly and helpful bunch. They were keen to aid Pete with a new look in Bukhara, [...]

Time off the bikes in Esfahan, Iran

Time off the bikes in Esfahan, Iran No fades, no added music. A taste of Esfahan. Just as we saw it. Just as we heard it.

Head’um off at the Pass…

Ten minutes before this truck had beeped and waved at us It’s 6.10am and the sun is streaming through our 4th floor hotel room in Agri. I’ve already had a shower and washed my stinky socks in the process too. Maybe it is from spending so many nights in the tent with the light waking [...]

Like Gold To Me

Sitting looking out over the Istanbulise skyline, the air is crisp and fresh and Fairport Convention is keeping me company. Birds tweet, cars beep, voices drift up from the street, and ambient sounds of the city seem calm to me today. It’s been a while since I felt the urge to write, but thismorning feels [...]

The Road to Istanbul the movie

Çeşme to Istanbul by bicycle 1 ferry 9 nights 10 days 750 kms 5 punctures (in 48 hours) Guitar music by Aaron McKenzie. Visit Aaron’s blog – abmillott.customer.netspace.net.au/Jac_and_Aaron/Welcome.html

Dovidenja Serbia! Hvala!!!

Just when you think things can’t get better than camping by rivers and friendly hostel dorms, Serbia continues to surprise us. Reflecting on our previous nights spent in this country we decided to stick with the plan of asking permission to pitch up, and where better than an Aerodrome just outside Smederevo. No sooner had [...]

Dobar Dan in Serbia

Realizing that the last few posts have all been scribed by the wonderful Pete I thought I’d steal a few moments with the computer while he’s in the shower and we wild camped last night so he’ll probably be some time. We are now in Belgrade staying in a terrific hostel, newly opened this spring and [...]

Grazie mille!!!!

First vista of Italy! Well here we are in Italy. Bellissimo! And I truely mean it too, we are currently staying with our pals Marco and Lora who together run a fantastic farm here in Tuscany, rearing goats, chickens, donkeys, horses and all sorts – we have added their website so you can see just how [...]


So we are in Germany! We’ve made it to our friends house in Denklingen which is a smidge south west of Munich. Stunning Bavarian countryside, hilly yes, hard work on the legs, granted, but worth it.  Since our last post we’ve sampled Strasbourg, where I traded in my Washburn Rover for a bright orange yukalalie [...]